Posts in Japan

Tokyo from Tsukiji Fish Market to the Robot Restaurant

We’ve been moving non-stop since we’ve been here.

Tuesday morning we slept in and decided to have a more relaxing day, but in the same areas as the day before). We started off the day going back to Bagel Bagel for breakfast, and to The Roastery for coffee. Then we wandered into a few of Tokyo’s many sock shops (these shops, dedicated to the sale of socks and socks only, exist on every corner in this city—who knew how popular socks were here?). When we were near Harajuku we went to a store called 6% Doki Doki and I bought a cartoon tooth ring (so appropriate for my family). Such a cool store!

Bagel Bagel Ebisu Tokyo
Bagel Bagel for breakfast.
Tokyo Sock Shop
One of Tokyo’s many sock shops (these shops, dedicated to the sale of socks and socks only, exist on every corner in this city—who knew how popular socks were here?).
 6% Doki Doki
When we were near Harajuku we went to a store called 6% Doki Doki and I bought a cartoon tooth ring (so appropriate for my family). Such a cool store!
 6% Doki Doki
Welcome to 6% Dokidoki! A sensational “Kawaii” shop in HARAJUKU which is recognized as the most avant guard representation of Japanese pop-culture. According to the store their concept is “sensational-cute”, “shocking cute”, “cute beyond the time”, “cute too mono-things”.
 6% Doki Doki Ring
Dr. Tooth Ring from 6% Doki Doki

For lunch we went to Bill’s Omotesando a new restaurant by Bill Granger (Anthony Bourdain’s friend). The food was ridiculously good! I think I had one of the most delicious salads of my life with grilled halloumi cheese and vegetables. Daniel got an amazing sandwich with sage and mozzarella cheese as well as ricotta filled pancakes with banana. We would both highly recommend this restaurant to anyone visiting Tokyo so long as you’re up for an hour wait—but we promise the food is really that good!

Bill’s Omotesando Tokyo
Lunch at Bill’s Omotesando I think I had one of the most delicious salads of my life with grilled halloumi cheese and vegetables. Daniel got an amazing sandwich with sage and mozzarella cheese.
Bill’s Omotesando Tokyo
The most amazing ricotta filled pancakes with banana.

In the afternoon Daniel and I split up, he wanted to do some work and I wanted to explore more of Shibuya. So I had a good few hours of getting lost in the shopping streets and malls of the area (but was too overwhelmed to buy anything) before reconvening back in Ebisu. We had a few drinks in the room (beer and sake) and then returned to SpaJiro for dinner at 11:00 PM (we had to convince them to let us in as they said the had already closed the kitchen—but when we told them we had came back a second night in a row, they miraculously let us in). Once again the food was delicious!

JR in Tokyo
This is what everyone looks like on the JR—even thought they are the only public transit system I have ever been on that explicitly states no cell phone usage.
SpaJiro Japanese Pasta Ebisu
Creatures of habit—got the same thing.
SpaJiro Japanese Pasta Ebisu
Same same—not different.

From 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM we bar-hopped and walked the streets to keep ourselves awake as we decided to go to the Tsukiji Fish Market with hopes of making it to the famous tuna auction. We took a cab at 3:15 in the morning and were the 64th and 65th people (we made the second group) to arrive out of a maximum of 120 people. We were given blue jerseys to put on over our clothes to identify us and sat in a “waiting room” until 5:50 AM when we were finally called into the auction.—If you want to see the Tsukiji tuna auction, here’s how it works. When you arrive at the fish market you must “apply” at the Osakana Fukyu Center (Fish Information Center) at the Kachidoki Gate, starting from 3:00AM on a first-come, first-serve basis. A first group of 60 visitors will be admitted to the auction between 5:25 and 5:50, while a second group of 60 visitors will be admitted between 5:50 and 6:15. If you don’t make it early enough, they will turn you away.

Tsukiji Fish Market Map
A basic map of the Tsukiji Fish Market.
Tsukiji Fish Market
The “waiting room” at the Tsukiji Fish Market looks like two teams waiting to play each other in something —even though most people are sleeping.

 

Tsukiji Fish Market Waiting Room
“It’s 4 AM and we couldn’t be more excited to be waiting to get into the tuna auction at the Tsujiki Fish Market—just look at our faces.”
Tsukiji Fish Market Waiting Room
And now it’s 5 AM and we still have to wait another 50 minutes.

When we walked into the auction room we a bunch of sushi chefs standing over a couple hundred massive flash frozen tunas rubbing, poking and prodding them with some type of a hook on a stick . Moments later a man jumped on a box crate and started the auction; he was shouting so passionately he was basically singing. The auction was super quick and within a matter of minutes some of these men had spent the equivalent of a couple thousand dollars up to ten thousand dollars per tuna. Crazy!

Tsukiji Fish Market Tuna Auction
One of the many auction area’s in this massive building where tuna auctions take place.
Tsukiji Fish Market Tuna Auction
“We didn’t sleep last night because we wanted to make it to the Tsukiji tuna auction at the largest wholesale fish market in the world. We showed up at 3:15 AM to get 2 of the coveted 120 spots for the day. Finally at 5:50 AM the fish police (yes they exist) escorted us into a warehouse where we watched the most badass fish auction (with a single tuna selling for up to 10k) of all time. Now we’re waiting in another hour and a half line to eat it.”
Tsukiji Fish Market Tuna Auction
Fish inspection.

Tsukiji Fish Market Tuna Auction
Us with the fishes.
Tsukiji Fish Market Tuna Auction
Dragging out the tuna he just paid for.

At 6:30 AM we walked out of the tuna auction and into the outdoor fish market where we immediately got into another line to wait for fresh sushi for breakfast. After an hour and a half later we finally made it to the front of the line for Daiwa Sushi, Tsukiji’s most famous sushi bar, after which you’ll be expected to eat and run,   restaurant with 11 seats at the bar. The chef made us the most delicious sushi of all time (I know I’ve said that before, but this was really the winning meal of the trip) and when we left we were absolutely exhausted. We somehow managed to make it back to our hotel without falling asleep on public transit and spent the most of the day sleeping.

Daiwa Sushi  Tsukiji Fish Market
Waiting in line for Daiwa Sushi at the Tsukiji Fish Market at 7 AM.
Daiwa Sushi Tsukiji Fish Market
The line for Daiwa Sushi Tsukiji Fish Market.
Daiwa Sushi Tsukiji Fish Market
Inside of the amazing Daiwa Sushi where you’re expected to eat and run.
Daiwa Sushi Tsukiji Fish Market
Us post eating the best sushi meal of all time!

We woke up at 4:00 PM Wednesday afternoon and went straight to Shinjuku to check in for the Robot Restaurant. For a show that’s all about modernity, their check in process is extremely antiquated. They don’t let you do much online ahead of time and when you walk in the door they make you stand in random lines for no reason—but this is beside the point. At 5:30 PM we walked down the most amazing staircase (I can’t even describe it so just look at the photos) and walked into what felt like a game show. We sat down in our pre-assigned seats and soon watched the most incredible hour and a half of entertainment. Part girly show and part hilarity there isn’t anything, anywhere more amazing than the robot show. Featuring incredible and ridiculous lifelike giant robots manned by sequined and sparkly bikini-clad women with rainbow wigs, there’s enough neon and lights in the small space to light all of Shinjuku and then some…

Robot Restaurant Robot Show
During the show the forrest people fought against the real robots using robotic animals and mystical creatures. So Cool!

Robot Restaurant Tokyo Japan
Daniel entering the Robot Restaurant down 3 flights of psychedelic stairs.
Robot Restaurant Tokyo
Rainbow ladies on the drums.

Robot Restaurant Bathroom
The most incredible bathroom at the Robot Restaurant.

Robot Restaurant Tokyo
The bar at the robot restaurant.

Post show we walked to dinner at an Italian restaurant (it was the only restaurant without a line in the area) called Italian Market, but really should have been called, “We’re Learning to Make What We Think is Italian Food”. Needless to say, the food was nothing special. After dinner we walked to Don Quijote—a random four-story souvenir shop, and left almost immediately after to go back and pack.

Don Quijote Market Shinjuku
“Pile ’em high, sell ’em cheap gets taken to the extreme at the Shinjuku branch of Don Qujote. The aisles and shelves are cluttered, disorganised and disorientating, but you’ll find everything from snacks to washing machines – if you look hard enough, at least.”
Don Quijote Market Shinjuku
Weirdly, there is an entire isle devoted to transgender costumes at Don Quijote Market.
Don Quijote Market Shinjuku
I thought about getting these for Halloween this year…. not quite sure what they are supposed to be.

Today was the last day of our trip. We woke up early to go back to Ueno Park to check out the cherry blossom trees during the day, which was more magnificent than the other night. It was crazy to see how many people were out so early at the park considering how dead the city feels at this time of day. After a bunch of photos we left and took the train to Harajuku station. We walked to The Roastry by Nozy Coffee for one last session with Riku (he’s the greatest) and went back to the hotel to get our bags. We took a 30-minute JR train to Noppori Station and another 30-minute Skytrain to Narita International Airport.

Ueno Park Cherry Blossoms
Blossoms during the day time
Ueno Park Cherry Blossoms
Last poses with the Sakura Blossoms.
Ueno Park Cherry Blossoms
Found this little wierdo being forced to pose by his mother in front of something near the cherry blossoms, but not the main attractions themselves.
Ueno Park Cherry Blossoms
Jumping Jaxy at Ueno Park Cherry Blossom festival

The Roastry by Nozy Coffee
One last stop at The Roastry by Nozy Coffee with Riku.
"Peace out Asia. From Sawadika to Ni-How to Konichiwa (to backpacks and suitcases) its been real. Thanks for the hospitality, the eccentricities, and all the other amazingly weird stuff. We'll keep the memories for years. Back to reality—onwards and upwards"
“Peace out Asia. From Sawadika to Ni-How to Konichiwa (to backpacks and suitcases) its been real. Thanks for the hospitality, the eccentricities, and all the other amazingly weird stuff. We’ll keep the memories for years. Back to reality—onwards and upwards”

At the airport we happened to bump into a friend I met abroad in Argentina named Ben. Ben joined Daniel and I for sushi at Gate 33 (recommended by Tessa) for our last meal at Narita Airport—sometimes the world feels so small. Now were sitting on the plane on the way back to Los Angeles.

Narita International Airport Japan
Outside of Gate 33 sushi restaurant at Narita International Airport with Ben.

I can’t believe it’s been two months since we left. It’s been a wonderful adventure filled with amazing experiences and memories that we won’t soon forget.

Flight to America
“After an amazing 4 months of traveling we are heading back to LA to start our new lives up in a new city”

Stay tuned as we’ll continue to post some other amazing things about the trip that we didn’t have time to do on the go.

Thanks so much for following our journey—we hope you enjoyed it!

Xx

LJ + DS

Timelapse in Tokyo During Cherry Blossom Season

We’re back in Tokyo!

Our hotel here, The Hotel Excellent Ebisu (such a silly name) is a two minute walk from the Ebisu subway station. After checking into our room (which is just large enough to fit a double bed and a desk plus a small bathroom), and unpacking—aka rearranging the room completely so we could sort of fit our stuff—we decided to have some whisky.

Hotel Excellent Ebisu bed
This is basically the room minus the hallway with the two peg’s (aka the closet). —This is clearly not our photo, please note the handheld video camera next to the telephone.
The Hotel Excellent Ebisu
the hallway aka. the closet in our room.

Around 9:30 PM we left to find a vegetarian ramen restaurant which, after roaming the streets and consulting multiple people, we found out no longer exists. However, in the process of trying to find this place we made three new Japanese friends who spoke very (and I mean very) limited English—they also filmed our entire twenty-minute interaction. After some communication with Google Translate, they ended up walking us down the street to a place called Afuri Ramen, which turned out to be one of the best ramen restaurants in the area. We ordered our vegetarian ramen via vending machine (with the help of one of the waitresses because we are useless without English)—so cool. Within five minutes of sitting down we were eating delicious ramen (I’d say “slurping delicious ramen” because that’s actually how you’re supposed to enjoy ramen here—slurping, making noise, and not chewing— but I detest slurping and noisy eaters with all of my being so I won’t say that)—great way to start the night.

Ebisu Tokyo
New friends via ramen hunting. The doctor on the right is the one who filmed the majority of our interaction.
Afuri Ramen Ebisu Tokyo
Unbelievable ramen! #nomnomnom
Afuri Ramen Ebisu Japan
Afuri Ramen (I went back in the daytime to take this, just in case anyone ends up here and wants to find this place.)

Completely full we left dinner and went to meet up with Brandon and Patty at Shamrock by Abbot’s Choice bar in Roppongi. We had a few drinks together before going our separate ways. Daniel and I caught a second wind and decided we’d explore Golden Gai—wall-to-wall izakaya (bars) in Shinjuku. The area of Golden Gai is smaller than an average city block with about six tiny streets populated by various closet-sized bars (each bar fits about five to eight people including the bartender). We found one bar where, according to the bartender, the theme was “nostalgic Japanese toys and candy.” We stayed for a few drinks until we decided to call it a night. We only realized how late we’d managed to stay out when we tried to take the subway back to our hotel and learned it was closed because it was 4:30 AM.

Golden Gai at night Shinjuku-
Ariel view of Golden Gai— smaller than an average city block with about six tiny streets populated by various closet-sized bars
Golden Gai shinjuku at night
One of the many narrow streets of Golden Gai.
Golden Gai Shinjuku
One of the tiny doors to a Golden Gai bar.
Golden Gai izakaya Shinjuku
According to the bartender, the theme was “nostalgic Japanese toys and candy.”
Golden Gai izakaya Shinjuku
Bar tender in a suit.

Sunday was the first morning we woke up on our own (without an alarm clock since Thailand). We grabbed croissants at the café next door and chose to spend our first morning in Tokyo at a laundry matt doing some domestic chores. While we were waiting for our laundry to cycle we walked to Shibuya and watched hundreds of people crisscrossing the streets at Shibuya Crossing or “scramble crossing”—it was pretty cool. Starving, we headed to L’OCCITANE Café (who knew they sold things other than body products) for lunch and ended up with a window spot on the third floor overlooking the cross walk. Then we went back to the laundry matt to dry our clothes just as it started to rain outside (not so fun). On our freezing-cold walk back to Hotel Excellent we popped into a place called Liquidroom, which is a live venue for punk music—we had no idea what was going on inside as no one spoke English and most people were dressed up in bizarre costumes with masks and weird fake fur accessories.

Ebisu Laundry Matt Detergent
Which detergent to choose from at the laundry matt?
Laundry Matt Tokyo
larger than laundry
Shibuya Crossing aka Scramble Crossing
Shibuya Crossing aka Scramble Crossing

Shibuya Crossing or Scramble Crossing
Jumping Jaxy—in Shibuya at the world’s largest pedestrian crossing. Traffic is stopped in all directions, allowing pedestrians to crisscross in what some might call organized chaos. Oh and I look like I have 4 legs.
L’OCCITANE Café  Shibuya
L’OCCITANE Café—delicious meal for lunch with a window spot on the third floor overlooking the cross walk
Liquidroom Tokyo
Liquidroom—a live punk music venue—we had no idea what was going on inside as no one spoke English and most people were dressed up in bizarre costumes with masks and weird fake fur accessories.

Back at the hotel we changed into warmer clothes and took the JR for thirty minutes to Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival at night. I have never seen trees so magnificent before. The trunks are a beautiful whitish grey color and the marshmellowy powder pink and white petals are stunning beyond description. It was an awesome experience to be able to walk through a lantern-lit park with a pink floral ceiling. At the end of the trees is a staircase that leads down to a night market selling every type of (non-vegetarian) food you could imagine. It looked delicious, but considering we couldn’t eat anything we walked for twenty minutes towards Akihabara to an Pakistani-Indian restaurant called DELHI, which Daniel really enjoyed and I’d rather not spend another minute writing about.

Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival
Cherry blossoms at night.
Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival
The row of cherry blossom tress.
Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival
Herrrrooo from the sakura festival.
Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival food
Food at the festival.
Ueno Park to check out the Cherry Blossom “Sakura” festival food
Salted fish on a spit.
DELHI Pakistani-Indian restaurant in Akihabara
Our meal at Delhi—tomato soup and something else with rice.

After dinner we walked into the heart of Akihabara aka electronic town, which is also known as geek universe as it’s a hub for anime fans and cosplayers. Using Crissy’s map we wandered around the area. We went to Yodobashi, the largest of the many massive electronics mea-malls in the area (Daniel was super happy to shop around here), to Gundam Café, an anime themed café which wasn’t for us, to Anime Plaza (exactly what it sounds like), and to Super Potato Retro-kan a 5-floor vintage arcade shop. It was a totally mind-blowing experience to walk into a neighborhood where people dress up like cartoon/anime characters and take it really seriously.

Akihabara at night
Akihabara at night
Yodobashi Camera
Daniel in the zone.
Yodobashi Camera
Wall of portable chargers.
SUPER POTATO AKIHABARA
Super Potato—Japan’s leading second-hand retro game shop.
Gundam Café,
Gundam Café decor.
Gundam Café,
I think this is a Gundam,

Monday morning we woke up and went to Bagel Bagel for breakfast, before walking from Ebisu to Shibuya (to see Hachiko, the dog statue) and up to Cat Street. On Cat Street we walked in and out of a bunch of the shops until Daniel used Bean Hunter to find the most amazing coffee shop–The Roastery by Nozy Coffee, which reminded us of Four Barrel in San Francisco. We became friendly with one of the baristas named Riku, who took good care of us and helped us order. Then we continued on our walking tour and went to the Oriental Bazaar (a shop filled with Japanese China and Kimonos), to Kiddy Land (a 5 story mall filled with everything that’s every been considered cute/a product of San Rio Hello Kitty), to La Foret Mall (Harajuku fashion mall), and to KINJI (a vintage store). We stumbled into Tokyo Women’s Plaza, a mall with a brand new restaurant called Hands Café, and decided to sit down for lunch, which was delicious.

Bagel Bagel
The best bagles in Tokyo.
Hachiko statue in Shibuya
Hachiko was an Akita dog born on a farm near the city of Ōdate, Akita Prefecture who is remembered for his remarkable loyalty to his owner which continued for many years after his owner’s death.
Cat Street Tokyo
The coolest street in Tokyo!
The Roastery by Nozy Coffee in Tokyo
Riku at The Roastery by Nozy Coffee in Tokyo
Oriental Bazaar Tokyo
Oriental Bazaar floor of Japanese China.
Oriental Bazaar Tokyo
Kimono floor at Oriental Bazaar.
Kiddy Land Tokyo
Caught a mom making her kid pose, so I snuck this shot at Kiddy Land.
Kiddy Land Tokyo
Herroooo Kitty.
La Foret Mall Harajuku
La Foret Mall—the epicenter of Harajuku fashion and strange amazingness.
Kinji 2nd hand Tokyo
Kinji—the largest 2nd Hand street fashion shop in all of Tokyo, I found a cotton candy person here.
Hands Café Tokyo
Brand new restaurant Hands Café,

After lunch we walked to Harajuku (my favorite area) and took a walk down the very crowded and narrow Takeshita Street, where I felt like a salmon swimming upstream amid a crowd of giddy, sparkly girls and boys dressed like an all blond version of One Direction. Walking down this street only confirmed to me that there is one speed in Japan—Geisha-speed aka NO ONE walks quickly, briskly, or swiftly—at times walking through crowds here can feel frustrating as you know you aren’t getting anywhere anytime soon. Halfway down Takeshita Street we stopped at Marion Crepes (which we were told is a must do activity when in Harajuku) for crepes—they were pretty good but not better than milk tea.

Harajuku Tokyo
Harajuku!!!!!!!!!
Marion Crepes
The most well-known crepe place in Harajuku.
Marion Crepes
Plastic crepes
MARION CREPES Harajuku
Enjoying our crepes outside of Marion Crepes.

At the end of this long street (and with all that remained of Daniel’s patience for being in this area) we stumbled on Pikura, a very popular photo-booth area where teenagers come to take photos with their friends. Unlike any photo booth I’ve been to before, these booths enlarge your eyes to make them look like those of an anime character and then let you decorate your photos with stamps and weird expressions before you print them. Obviously I had way to much fun here!

Pikura Photo Harajuku
At the end of this long street (and with all that remained of Daniel’s patience for being in this area) we stumbled on Pikura, a very popular photo-booth area where teenagers come to take photos with their friends. Unlike any photo booth I’ve been to before, these booths enlarge your eyes to make them look like those of an anime character and then let you decorate your photos with stamps and weird expressions before you print them. Obviously I had way to much fun here!
Pikura Photo Harajuku
Pikura—here’s what the photo strip says (not sure what the theme is) “Today is a very very special day!!! Friends makes me happy every day. We will be great friends forever”

With our feet ready to fall off, we decided to take the JR back to Ebisu station to go to our hotel, before going to SpaJiro a Japanese pasta restaurant, for dinner (which was surprisingly delicious).

SpaJiro Japanese Pasta
SpaJiro—Japanese pasta for dinner (which was surprisingly delicious).
SpaJiro Japanese Pasta
More Japanese pasta.

We’re loving Tokyo!

 

Kyoto is a Japanese Tea Ceremony

Wednesday morning we rented bikes from the hotel and went to a French restaurant, Boulangerie, for croissants and ran into Mats and Robert (our friends from the night before).

Boulangerie Rauk
Boulangerie Sheep pastries—obviously, because it’s the year of the sheep.

Then we continued our search for gloves until we finally found, what I’m convinced they are the last two pairs in Kyoto (they have some serious personality). Then we biked for an hour in thirty-degree weather to Arashiyama. As we were crossing the Togetsu-kyo Bridge near the main street area, it started to rain and hail (so fun). So we parked our bikes and searched for shelter. We found a soba restaurant but when Daniel went inside to ask how long the wait would be, the hostest refused to acknowledge him. So we walked down the road and found a cute Japanese style restaurant (I think it was called Shigetsu), which much nicer service. We ate a very traditional meal, but it was very bland, nonetheless, lunch was an experience.

Biking in Arashiyama Kyoto
Biking in thirty-degree weather to Arashiyama.
Biking in Arashiyama Kyoto
As we were crossing the Togetsu-kyo Bridge in Arashiyama near the main street area, it started to rain and hail (so fun). This is just before that happened.
Shigetsu Restaurant Menu
The menu which we couldn’t understand a word of. Thank goodness for photos that are semi descriptive.
Shigetsu Restaurant Arashiyama
We ate a very traditional meal, but it was very bland, nonetheless, lunch was an experience. This is part 1.
Shigetsu Restaurant Arashiyama
Part 2 of lunch.

As the rain and hail stopped we found our way into the Bamboo Forest— this place was absolutely magical and enchanting! We meandered through the forest until we found Tenryu-ji Temple, which had the most beautiful garden and lots of newly budding cherry tree blossoms.

Bamboo Grove Arashiyama
As the rain and hail stopped we found our way into the Bamboo Forest— this place was absolutely magical and enchanting!
Bamboo Grove Arashiyama
Jumping Jaxy—in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama.
Bamboo Grove Arashiyama
Team shot in the Bamboo Grove/Forest.
Bamboo Grove Arashiyama
Go pro shot of the bamboo.
Tenryu-ji Temple in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
Us in front of Tenryu-ji Temple.
Tenryu-ji Temple in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
Jumping Jaxy—in Tenryu-ji Temple.
Tenryu-ji Temple in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
Us in front of the koi fish pond.
Tenryu-ji Temple in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
The rock garden in front of Tenryu-ji Temple.
Tenryu-ji Temple in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
The most magnificent garden filled with budding cherry blossom trees.
Cherry Tree Blossoms
Spring is here apparently—its cherry blossom season.
Tenryu-ji Temple Cherry Blossom Season in the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama
Finally! Cherry Blossom season coming to fruition.

We took lots of photos and then got back on our bikes to go to the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama. We climbed up a hill for a good twenty minutes, learning trivia about monkeys along the way, until we arrived at the top where we could see panoramic views of all of Kyoto. On the hill there are about 200 monkeys roaming freely. The monkeys all have red faces and butts because their blood shows through their skin. They all looked like they were freezing by the way they sat huddling, perched up on various things. There are a few monkey guards who keep the monkeys from charging people (which happens every now and then) by running at them and barking—unique approach. Daniel and I posed for a few photos amid the city views and the monkeys before climbing down the mountain.

Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Monkey see monkey do. But I actually sit like this, so I’m not sure who is copying who.
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
This is GRANDMA—the oldest monkey at the park—you can tell she’s old because she is skinnier, less fluffy, and more worn down than the rest—is 35 years old (the average age for this kind of monkey is 30) and appeared to be smarter than the rest because she was sitting at the base of an outdoor heater.
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Daniel and I posed for a few photos amid the city views and the monkeys.
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Same same, but different.
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Unreal Kyoto panoramic views from the monkey park.
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Keep reading www.PocketJax.com!

We got on our bikes and started riding as the sun disappeared behind the mountain. About 20 minutes into our ride I hit a curb the wrong way and went flying—next thing I knew I was on the floor with the bike behind me. I freaked myself out and started crying. Daniel came over to hug me, asked if I was okay, and then told me we could fix my jeans. At that point I looked down and realized the fall had shredded my jeans open, this was when I actually started to cry (sad but true). Through my torn jeans we could tell that I was bleeding a bit, but couldn’t really access much of my skin. Daniel found a bike store about three shops away from us (pure luck) and we hobbled over. The two guys running the shop spoke 0 English. They saw I had been crying, saw my shredded jeans, and tried to ask Daniel what happened. They were able to communicate with each other by using Google Translate (so amazing). Eventually Daniel got on the phone with someone’s wife who was translating in English and Japanese for everyone. I called he hotel to see if they could arrange to get the bikes—because we couldn’t fit them into a taxi—and they couldn’t have been sweeter or more helpful. Between the hotel and the bike shop something was worked out. While this was going on, one of they guys at the bike shop ran down the street to bring us hot chocolate because it was freezing. So nice! They called us a cab and we went back to the hotel.

Japanese Bike Shop
Despite not being able to exchange a word in a common language, this man was a complete angle to me. He even ran down the street to bring us hot chocolate because it was freezing out. So nice!

As I was cleaning myself up in the room, the doorbell rang. I opened the door to two very sweet staff members who brought me big Band-Aids, gauze, sterilizing agent, and water as a “sympathy gift”. I was so touched. Before we left for dinner, we went down to the lobby to thank the manager. He handed us a bag, which he told us was “a sympathy gift from the men at the bike shop”. Inside the bag were two bike lights, one that looks like a cat and one that looks like a dog. I was so deeply moved by their kindness. After all, we interrupted them, took time out of their day, and put them out, and yet they managed to give us something yet again. The kindness of people here is something I will never forget.

Animal Bike Lights
A sympathy gift from the bike store guys—cat and dog bike lights.. I was so deeply moved by their kindness.

For dinner we walked to a famous restaurant called Ippudo Ramen and ordered delicious vegetarian ramen. Daniel and I both highly recommend this place! After dinner we wandered around the very empty and very quiet streets for a bit (all of Kyoto at night feels like a tea ceremony because no one speaks) before heading back to the hotel to sleep.

Ippudo Ramen Kyoto
Shotgun restaurant style at Ippudo Ramen.
Ippudo Ramen Kyoto
The most delicious vegetarian ramen. Daniel and I both highly recommend this place!

Thursday we woke up early (even though it was so difficult to get out of bed) and went back to Boulangerie for breakfast. We sat next to Mats and Robert and exchanged stories about the day before. Breakfast was delicious, scrambled eggs with unlimited breads and coffee. Daniel and I took the bus to Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”. The original building was built in 1397 and was converted into a temple, but then in 1950 a monk consummated his obsession with the temple by burning it to the ground—weird. In 1955 the temple underwent a full reconstruction—the temple and its garden were majestic and ridiculous. On our way out, we tried various types of mochi snacks and green tea (some with gold leaf inside).

Boulangerie Rauk Kyoto
The pastry section of Boulangerie. So yum!
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”.
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”. The original building was built in 1397 and was converted into a temple, but then in 1950 a monk consummated his obsession with the temple by burning it to the ground—weird. In 1955 the temple underwent a full reconstruction—the temple and its garden were majestic and ridiculous.
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”.
I liked the tickets so I took this shot—Daniel told me it was silly…..
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”.
…one minute later as we’re taking this photo the woman standing next to us puts her tickets out. Photo jacking.
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”.
Us in front of Kinkaku-ji.
Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famed “Golden Pavilion”.
We offered to take a group shot of these boys and instead of letting us take it, they asked us to be in it, and still made one of their friends take it.

For lunch we went to Nishiki Market aka Kyoto’s Pantry to check out all of the strange and exciting food. We bought some weird cheese stick but didn’t like it. Then we tried Onigiri, the triangle sushi rice wrapped in seaweed with poppy seeds, and it couldn’t have been more delicious! We spent around forty-five minutes walking up and down the pathway, checking out the different foods at the different stalls. Eventually we ended up at Iyomata, a hole in the wall sushi-only restaurant and had some tasty and authentic sushi.

Nishiki Market aka Kyoto’s Pantry
Nishiki Market has these colorful glass windowed ceilings that are different than every other inclosed outdoor area.
Nishiki Market aka Kyoto’s Pantry
Random foods at Nishiki Market.
Nishiki Market aka Kyoto’s Pantry
Dried, dehydrated, and flattened squid shop.
Nishiki Market aka Kyoto’s Pantry
Sweets shop.
 Iyomata Sushi Nikishi Market Kyoto
Iyomata, a hole in the wall sushi-only restaurant. Tasty sashimi!
Iyomata Sushi Nikishi Market Kyoto
The chef behind the sushi.

In the afternoon we went to Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine to check out the majestic orange gates. We learned that the shrine itself is dedicated to the g-ds of rice and sake (we were big fans from the start) and is populated with dozens of stone foxes; the fox is considered to be the messenger of Inari, the g-d of the rice harvest. We hopped onto the back of some American families tour and learned a bit about the shrines before leaving. This shrine was totally worth all they hype!

Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine Kyoto
It’s a miracle I was able to get this shot so far away with no one in it.
Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine Kyoto
Jumping Jaxy—in the orange gates of the Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine. Kyoto
Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine Kyoto
This shrine itself is dedicated to the g-ds of rice and sake (we were big fans from the start) and is populated with dozens of stone foxes; the fox is considered to be the messenger of Inari, the g-d of the rice harvest. We hopped onto the back of some American families tour and learned a bit about the shrines before leaving. This shrine was totally worth all they hype!

Daniel downloaded an app called Bean Hunter, which tells you about all the best local coffee shops in a city, so on the way out of Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine, we went to a local place known as Café Goo. We ordered a coffee and a green tea (considering how unpleasant the coffee has been for the last month and a half I wasn’t all too excited about taking the risk on ordering another bad cup). Turns out the coffee here was excellent—smooth and strong without any bitterness—and the owner couldn’t have been sweeter.

Cafe Goo Kyoto
How they do coffee at Cafe Goo!
Café Goo Kyoto Coffee Shop
We ordered a coffee and a green tea. The coffee here was excellent—smooth and strong without any bitterness—and the owner couldn’t have been sweeter.
Kyoto
On the walk back to our hotel in Kyoto.

I headed to the outdoor market to look for a pair of pants (to replace my shredded jeans) and Daniel went to the hotel to relax. I found a store called Who’s Who and had the most fun with the cute Japanese sales associate who spoke no English. Every time I would try pants on she would bring out a different top, jacket, and pair of retro athletic shoes to try them on with. I am pleased to report I found a pretty cool pair of trousers. Oh—one random and interesting thing to note, in some of the stores they have “face covers” for people to wear when they try on anything that goes over their head, so as to avoid getting makeup or sweat on the clothing—strange but also not the worst thing I’ve ever heard.

Who's Who Store Kyoto
I found a store called Who’s Who and had the most fun with the cute Japanese sales associate who spoke no English. Every time I would try pants on she would bring out a different top, jacket, and pair of retro athletic shoes to try them on with. She even had me try on this dress, even though I told her I only needed pants. Such fun.

I went back to the hotel, grabbed Daniel and we met up with Brandon and Patty (amazing friends from Los Angeles) in the hotel bar. We had a drink and then Daniel and Brandon had some weird interaction with a woman dressed as a bell-boy who eventually gave them a dinner recommendation. The four of us walked to Italiana Sagra, a highly recommended Italian restaurant. When we walked in we ordered a fabulous bottle of wine and started to go over the menu. As vegetarians there wasn’t much that Daniel and I could eat but we figured we would get the grilled sea bass, and Patty decided on the same. Two minutes after ordering the nice waiter came back to tell us there is no more sea bass. Then we asked for something else and he came back a moment later to tell us that they didn’t have that either. He then informed us that the English menu we were looking at was from the year before and many of the dishes had been changed. So we requested pasta with olive oil and garlic, which they weren’t able to do. Then they told Brandon they couldn’t make the dish he wanted. We made the call to leave here and go somewhere else for dinner, but we felt bad so we ordered a bread basked which our waiter presented to us in extreme detail, before we got the bill. We decided to go back to Kappa Sushi (the restaurant Daniel and I had dinner at two nights before). We were seated at a traditional Japanese style table and ordered more amazing sushi! Then we all went our separate ways and decided to meet up Saturday in Tokyo. Such a fun night!

Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa Bar
In the hotel bar meeting up with Brandon and Patty for a drink before a night out in Kyoto.
Italiana Sarga Menu
The menu at Italiana Sagra, which our waiter waited a good twenty minutes after we had ordered to inform us that the English menu we were looking at was from the year before and many of the dishes had been changed.***They say SOURCE instead of SAUCE****
Kappa Sushi Kyoto
Traditional Japanese style table at Kappa Sushi where we ordered more amazing sushi!
Kappa Sushi Kyoto
Group shot at Kappa Sushi!
Kappa Sushi Kyoto
One more for good luck.
Kyoto Streets
Daniel asked this doctor to take a photo of Brandon, Patty and I (soon to be him too) and the man had no clue how to use the camera. So Daniel took a selfie with him.
Kyoto Streets
After a few miscommunications we found a different doctor to take a photo of us.

Friday morning we woke up early, went to breakfast at Boulangerie, saw Mats and Robert, ate and said goodbye.

Boulangerie Rauk
Last breakfast at Boulangerie in Toyko.

 

We took a cab to the Kyoto Station and met the nicest couple— originally from New York, but living in Los Angeles named Laurie and Washington—on the platform as we were waiting for our train. We chatted with them until our train arrived as we were in separate cars. The bullet train was quick and easy, yet again, and we passed Mount Fuji on the way, which was stunning. We arrived at Odawara Station and ran into Laurie and Washington again. They gave us a box of Pierre Hermé French Macaroons as a gift—sweetest people ever!

Kyoto Station
This is what we look like when we’re rushing through an awesome train station.
Kyoto Station
The JR bullet train kind of looks like a porpoise.
Mount Fuji Japan
We passed by Mount Fuji on the way to Hakone. Insane!
Pierre Hermé French Macaroons
Pierre Hermé French Macaroons—a gift from Laurie and Washington. SO NICE!

Konichiwa Kyoto

We arrived at the amazing Kyoto Station and took a taxi with the sweetest driver ever to the Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa.

Taxi Driver Kyoto
The sweetest Taxi driver I’ve ever met!

When we checked in I spoke with the receptionist for a good 20-minutes and planned out our transportation and itinerary for our three days in Kyoto with the help of Katie’s amazing guide. (THANKS KATIE!) Daniel tested out the toilets (and told me it was an immediate priority that I do the same) and decided that we live like peasants in America.

Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa
Lobby of Kyoto Royal Hotel & Spa.
Kyoto Guide
Katie’s AMAZING Kyoto Guide.
Japanese Toilets
Fancy Japanese toilet usage instructions.

We walked across the street to Musashi Sushi, a conveyer belt style restaurant, for lunch. The place was delicious, but carried many things we’d never seen before like, raw horse meat, figure squid, boiled bones of fish, and black throat sea perch. We tried a “cream cheese sesame roll” that was basically a Jewish style bagel (minus the bagel).

Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Musashi Sushi–a conveyer belt style restaurant.
Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Daniel posing with round one of our sushi.
Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Many things we’d never seen before like, raw horse meat.
Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Boiled bones of fish—any takers?
Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Another thing we’d never seen before—black throat sea perch.
Musashi Sushi in Kyoto
Cream cheese sesame roll aka the Jewish style bagel roll (minus the bagel).

After lunch we walked through a massive outdoor shopping mall Eirakucho and stopped for some hot milk tea, right as it started to rain. Each place we’ve been since Thailand has gotten progressively colder. We tried to buy gloves at a few stores, but since every store is preparing for spring they no longer carry winter clothes. One employee at Zara told us to try Uniqlo—when we asked her for directions she walked us out of the store and down the road until we were a few stores away (so kind and unnecessary, but we were so grateful and impressed by her kindness).

Outdoor Mall in Kyoto
Awesome and massive outdoor shopping mall in Kyoto. These three religious guys wear shoes made out of rope and follow each other in lines.

We took the subway to Kiyomizu-Gojo station and took a beautiful and very tranquil walk to Kiyomizu-dera Temple, one of the most famous landmarks in Kyoto. The walk up to the temple, called Teapot Lane, is lined with little shops selling snacks, and local handcrafted gifts and knickknacks. Another interesting thing to mention is that the temple was full of tourists that we have been referring to as “rent-a-geishas”—(exactly what it sounds like—tourists who rent geisha costumes and walk around the city in wooden sandals moving at a snails pace for the day). I have could never have done this for two reasons despite my love for dress up—1) There is no way I could ever feel comfortable moving so slowly 2) It was so cold outside (40 degrease Fahrenheit) there was no way I was going to suffer through the day in a silk dress and flip flips.

Cemetery on the way to Kiyomizu-dera Temple
The most massive cemetery on the walk to Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
At the entrance to the walk up of Kiyomizu-dera Temple with a new Cherry Blossom tree!
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
Kiyomizu-dera Temple, one of the most famous landmarks in Kyoto.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
Shrining it up in front of the orange towers.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
Jumping Jaxy— at Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
Us taking a photo on a little lookout ledge out in front of Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
Buddha at the Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. Looks so different to every other one we’ve seen.
Geisha's in Kyoto
The city is full of tourists that we have been referring to as “rent-a-geishas”—(exactly what it sounds like—tourists who rent geisha costumes and walk around the city in wooden sandals moving at a snails pace for the day).
Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto
New friends at Kiyomizu-dera Temple. I think we were all equally excited about being able to be a part of a photo together.

After the temple we went to explore Gion, Kyoto’s well-known entertainment and geisha district. While we saw more than our fair share of “rent-a-geishas” we didn’t see any authentic ones—to be expected as it is considered very rare to find them. After walking the streets for a while we headed over to a green tea ceremony at a place called En. A woman in a kimono, who I’ll refer to as a tea geisha (because I’m not sure what else to call her) explained traditional Japanese manners to us and then told us that a tea ceremony is about four things—1) Peace and Harmony 2) Respect 3) Purity 4) Tranquility. After a lengthy explanation of these things, a younger tea geisha walked into the room and performed the tea ceremony in dead silence (all you could hear was the sound of water boiling in the kettle and being poured). Every movement is so precise and thought out; every action has meaning. Once the tea-geisha was finished with her presentation, we were given a Japanese sweet and the necessary tools to make our own green tea from Matcha powder—this was great! After the ceremony Daniel asked the tea-geisha “Do people actually speak to each other at Japanese tea parties?” and her answer was “Only a little bit—the main guest asks the host about the history of the tea utensils, but that’s all the conversation made”—for the record this is definitely not my kind of tea party.

Gion District Kyoto
Gion District—home of the geisha.
En Green Tea Ceremony Kyoto
A woman in a kimono, who I’ll refer to as a tea geisha (because I’m not sure what else to call her) explained traditional Japanese manners to us and then told us that a tea ceremony is about four things—1) Peace and Harmony 2) Respect 3) Purity 4) Tranquility.
En Green Tea Ceremony Kyoto
Cup of self-made matcha green tea, with a bamboo whisk.
En Green Tea Ceremony Kyoto
Japanese sweet to enjoy with your cup of tea.
En Green Tea Ceremony Kyoto
This younger tea geisha performed the tea ceremony in dead silence (all you could hear was the sound of water boiling in the kettle and being poured). Every movement is so precise and thought out; every action has meaning.

When we got out of the tea ceremony, the weather had dropped into the high thirties. We made friends with a fabulous woman named Deisha from Portland, but then split up because we were turning blue. We returned to our hotel, put on more clothes, and went to a very cool Japanese restaurant called Kappa Sushi. The sushi was insane—best salmon nigiri we’ve ever tried. Towards the end of our meal a good-looking older Japanese woman carrying a white pony fur purse with a taxidermy frog (serious jewels inset for eyes) and wearing a dental hygienist mask sat down next to us—she reminded me of the sassy socialite woman from the movie Harriet the Spy. Anyway, we started talking to her (her name is Sudako) and learned that she lived in the Oakland Hills for twenty years but now lives in Osaka—small world. We asked her why people wear the hygienist mask and she explained that she wears it for allergies because it’s spring time (even though it feels like the dead of winter), but some women think it’s very fashionable to just show their eyes—so they pinch the top of the mask and make it look higher up on their nose to appear more western—so strange. Before we left, she gave us some sage life advice aka she told us about the importance of buying quality products—“I bought a $700 lice-cooker and it’s never failed me”. Fun fact: just like Daniel’s niece, Sudako’s granddaughter is also named “Orivia.” I’m so thankful we had the opportunity to meet her. She was a real gem (just like the eyes on the frog on her purse).

Kappa Sushi Kyoto
Awesome Japanese restaurant called Kappa Sushi. The sushi was insane—best salmon nigiri we’ve ever tried.
Kappa Sushi Kyoto
Round two.
Dental Hygienist Mask Japan
We asked Sudako why people wear the hygienist mask and she explained that she wears it for allergies because it’s spring time (even though it feels like the dead of winter), but some women think it’s very fashionable to just show their eyes—so they pinch the top of the mask and make it look higher up on their nose to appear more western—so strange.

Shivering cold, we walked down the narrow streets in search of a drink (it was now 35 degrease out). A man approached us and asked what we were looking for, we told him a good bar and he pointed us down the narrowest passage of micro restaurants and bars to a place called Concrete Bar. Confused as to exactly where he was pointing, he then walked us towards a brown door (shorter than I am) covered in stickers and slid it open to reveal a two-story closet sized bar—so cool! We sat down and ordered whiskies and were soon joined by two men from Sweden named Mats and Robert. We spent the rest of the night drinking and chatting about all the fun things in life (e.g. travel, great food and drinks, Netflix and HBO television shows).

Concrete Bar Kyoto
A man approached us and asked what we were looking for, we told him a good bar and he pointed us down the narrowest passage of micro restaurants and bars to a place called Concrete Bar.
Concrete Bar Kyoto
A tiny brown door (shorter than I am) covered in stickers reveals a two-story closet sized bar—so cool! HI Daniel!
Concrete Bar Kyoto
Group shot inside of Concrete Bar—me, Daniel, Mats, and Robert.

Kyoto coming in for the win!

Tokyo—The City of Dental Hygienists

From the moment we boarded our flight to Japan we immediately felt like we were transported out of China. The plane was so nice and new and everyone was so quiet. Each individual seat had a TV on the back of the head rest (which was amazing considering the Chinese airlines often don’t have any TV’s and when they do only 4.7% of them work)—I watched the Curious Case of Benjamin Button and Daniel worked on editing Larry’s promotional video for his website Kosher Beijing Tours. We had the cutest flight attendant—she served us Japanese beer and rice snacks, and gave us even more when she found out we couldn’t eat the main course because we were vegetarian. We had such a nice flight we didn’t want to get off the plane due to the nice environment.

ANA flight snacks
We had the cutest flight attendant—she served us Japanese beer and rice snacks, and gave us even more when she found out we couldn’t eat the main course because we were vegetarian.
ANA flight from Beijing to Tokyo out the window
Window views on the flight from Beijing to Tokyo.
ANA flight to Japan
Happy to be on our flight from China to Japan!

We arrived at Narita International Airport at 8:30 PM, but everything was closed for the night—all the shops, all the restaurants, and even Starbucks (not that I’m a fan, but when is Starbucks ever closed?). We through the airport for the greater part of an hour until we finally found a SIM card that wouldn’t cost us $15/day or $13/day for portable wifi.

Narita International Airport
Narita International Airport —virtually empty!
Narita International Airport
Fake food window displays everywhere!

 

After we got data (and could sort of use Google Maps) we entered the subway station. Interestingly, unlike China, when we asked people if we were boarding the right train they all put their heads down and ignored us (there wasn’t even an attempt to help)—not what we expected. Anyway, we found the correct subway lines and navigated our way to the Minato-ku neighborhood (near the Tokyo Tower) to get to our hotel Mielparque Tokyo. There was a general welcome sign in the lobby that read, “We hope you both beautiful happy time.” We checked in and went up to the room—much smaller than anywhere else we’d been but that’s what we’ve heard about Tokyo living spaces.

Mielparque Tokyo Hotel Room
Mielparque Tokyo Hotel Room—I’m pretty sure the pillows were stuffed with some type of heavy grain-like substance. Strange but we slept well.
Mielparque Tokyo Hotel Bathroom
The most amazingly compact bathroom at Mielparque Tokyo.

We ran to grab dinner down the block at any open restaurant we could find with veggie options. We found a ramen place and ordered our ramen two ways (one with spicy broth and one with miso broth) through a vending machine, then the chef took the ticket and made us some of the most delicious soup I’ve ever had. We ordered hot sake and beer to go with the meal—everything was super delightful. Totally full and ready to pass out we walked back to our hotel in the freezing Tokyo weather and go into bed. I’m pretty sure the pillows were stuffed with some type of heavy grain-like substance. Strange but we slept well.

Ramen Vending Machine in Minato-ku
Ramen Vending Machine in Minato-ku, Tokyo.
Tokyo Ramen in Minato-ku
We ordered ramen two ways (spicy broth and miso broth) through a vending machine, then the chef took the ticket and made us some of the most delicious soup I’ve ever had. We ordered hot sake and beer to go with the meal—everything was super delightful.
Tokyo Ramen
Thoroughly enjoying my miso flavored ramen!
Ramen in Tokyo
This is the name of the ramen place. It’s as much as I can tell you.

Tuesday we woke up, wheeled our bags to the subway station (no escalators or elevators at some stops aka Daniel had to carry our luggage up lots and lots of stairs), and got on the train to the JR station. Then we took the JR bullet train to Kyoto Station. The bullet train was amazing; quick, clean, and quiet. Daniel slept and I worked on the blog.

Japanese Subway Station
Daniel buying tickets at the subway station.
Japanese Subway Station
Some of the subway stops don’t have escalators or elevators aka Daniel had to carry our luggage up lots and lots of stairs.
Japanese Subway Station
This is what it looks like on the subway in Japan.
Tokyo Face Masks
Tokyo—the city where everyone looks like a dental hygienist.