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Part 6: Railay and Phi Phi

Hi!!!

Sorry we haven’t updated lately!

We caught some type of bug “from the local fauna” and have been down for the count. I didn’t feel like updating you on the mundane and semi excruciating details of our illness so I’ve just left you in the dark for a bit. Apologies.

Thursday morning we woke up feeling pretty terrible. We didn’t get out of bed until Friday morning when we had to pack up, check out, and board a ferry to Ko Phi Phi. Let me tell you, when you’re not feeling well a two hour ferry ride in Thailand is your worst nightmare.

Bedridden at the Bhu Nha Thani.
Bedridden at the Bhu Nha Thani.

Anyway we arrived in Phi Phi, an absolute jewel of an island, and schlepped our backpacks (which I can definitely say I am not designed to do) down several narrow, unpaved roads (which housed much better shops than any other island) to our accommodation, the PP Casita. The PP Casita was definitely a downgrade from the Bhu Nha Thani, but not nearly as terrible as the Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation. We were shown to a corner room on the bottom floor, which was engineered so that you couldn’t possibly access natural light unless you wanted the entire village (from one side) and/or the rest of the bungalows at the Casita (from the other side) to watch your every move—which, for the record I don’t think anyone would have enjoyed much considering how horrible we were feeling. Daniel suggested that lunch might be a good idea, so we walked to a local place called Anita’s. Barely able to stomach the food, we went back to our room to recover until dinner. Feeling a bit better we went to dinner at place recommended by Trip Advisor called Anna’s Restaurant (the sign was written in Disney’s Aladdin font—definitely legal), which was amazing. I was delighted to finally find a delicious and truly vegetarian, vegetable noodle soup!

Postcard perfect Phi Phi (not our photo).
Postcard perfect Phi Phi (not our photo).
The PP Casita (no idea where the Spanish came from).
The PP Casita (no idea where the Spanish came from).

 

Anna's Restaurant (the sign is written in Disney's Aladdin font—definitely legal).
Anna’s Restaurant (the sign is written in Disney’s Aladdin font—definitely legal).

After we ate we decided to walk down to the beach parties that half of the island was advertising for. Side note: Phi Phi smells like poo poo and fish guts (gross but true). All down the beach there must have been 5 almost identical bars with plastic chairs set up around them. All of them had different types of poi/fire throwing shows going on. We ended up going to one called 4Play where we noticed a man standing on top of a tall poll about to walk a tight rope (aka a discarded piece of rope from a long boat anchor—very safe) while juggling fire. The guys doing the show were absolutely amazing, except for when they would accidentally drop the fire directly onto an unsuspecting audience member’s head, foot, or crotch (which happened twice). Oops.

Poi
Poi tightrope walking (aka a discarded piece of rope from a long boat anchor) at 4Play.
Poi stack—nothing like jumping on top of your friend while juggling fire sticks. I'd hate to be the guy attached to the front.
Poi stack—nothing like jumping on top of your friend while juggling fire sticks. I’d hate to be the guy attached to the front.

There was one audience member, an extremely drunk bald man wearing just a bathing suit, who decided he needed to be involved throughout the show. He kept running up whenever the guys were throwing fire and would try to stand next to them, or sit under them. His girlfriend, who seemed absolutely horrified, kept running up to grab him and pull him back while he would vehemently resist—this happened so many times it became a show in itself. Unphased, the poi guys started a fire limbo and invited everyone to participate. Obviously, the drunk bald guy was the first one to join and the second, and the third, and the forth, etc, because he kept going back and forth until they pushed him aside. I thought this was hilarious, until he started flashing himself and trying to lick the fire. Amid the drunk man’s insanity, Daniel managed to sneak in a low limbo before we decided to call it a night.

Saturday morning we woke up feeling much better. We ate a semi-edible breakfast at the hotel next to an older woman with about thirteen fake lily flowers haphazardly placed throughout her bun (if you could call it that) and headed to the beach. The beach was absolutely magnificent, exactly what you see on a postcard—white sand that fades into clear water that goes from turquoise, to green, to light blue. (They call Phi Phi “Thailand’s Superstar” because of the islands beauty as well as its appearance in films like Danny Boyle’s The Beach.) At the beach we rented beach chairs (cause everything on these islands is for a price—even if it is cheap) and spent the morning reading and relaxing. We ate lunch at a pretty cool place called Grand PP Arcade and went back to the beach to chill a bit more.

Jumping Jaxy on Phi Phi island—Thailand's "superstar"—land of warm water, scenic views, "The Beach", and poi
Jumping Jaxy on Phi Phi island—Thailand’s “superstar”—land of warm water, scenic views, “The Beach”, and poi

In the afternoon we rented kayaks and snorkels from a woman—who laughed at Daniel’s every attempt to bargain with her—for 300 Baht ($9), and paddled out to another side of the island called Monkey Beach. The beach was absolutely littered with garbage and trash that the monkeys were trying to eat, which was pretty sad. Daniel hooked his GoPro to a wooden swing to see how the monkeys would respond, which was lots of fun until he realized we may not get it back (little thieves). So we grabbed the GoPro, put on our snorkels and went looking for fishes. The water was so hot it must have been 90 degrees +. I’ve never been in an ocean, or even a pool for that matter, this warm in my life. The snorkeling was decent, nothing too exciting down there, but lots of fun. We paddled back to the main beach, returned the kayak, and went swimming for a bit. Eventually we headed back to the Casita to get ready for dinner.

Kayaking in Phi Phi
Kayaking in Phi Phi
Snorkeling in the waters of Phi Phi.
Snorkeling in the waters of Phi Phi.

We went back to Anna’s again for another amazing meal of vegetarian noodle soup and something called chili cream, which Daniel fell in love with. Then we walked all around the island to see everything we had previously missed. Daniel found an ice cream shop, kind of like Coldstone, except that that actually freeze the ice cream with the mix-ins on a cooling table in front of you. The finished product looks like little ice cream rolls. Super cool and pretty tasty. Towards the end of the night we walked back to or room and packed our bags for an early morning departure.

The "Coldstone" of Thailand.
The freezing process at the “Coldstone” of Thailand.
The ice cream rolls—finished product at the "Coldstone" of Thailand.
The ice cream rolls—finished product at the “Coldstone” of Thailand.

We”ll write more later.

Besitos

Part 5: Railay

Hi Diddly Ho!

The blog is finally up and running, which has been quite a bit of work. But now you can check here for updates, rather than waiting for novels to come thorough to you via email. After this post we’ll try to make them shorter. We hope you enjoy!

Sunday afternoon our ferry arrived in the shallow (which is all relative, when it comes to how tall you are) waters of Railay, and we transferred to a long boat to get to shore. Daniel put his backpack on and hopped off the boat landing shin deep in the water. I tried to do the same, but wasn’t so skilled with my balance and found myself teetering back and forth a good five times, almost falling backwards onto the boat. The guys driving the boat were having a good laugh at my attempted “dismount” until I eventually plunged myself (thigh deep) into the water.

Our first view of Railay from the ferry (we happen to be in it).  Please excuse GoPro clarity.
Our first view of Railay from the ferry (we happen to be in it). Please excuse GoPro clarity.

Railay is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen; it is completely unique unto itself with its massive limestone crags jutting about every which way.

A pristine beach view.
A pristine beach view.

Daniel and I spotted a man from our hotel, who took us on a three-minute walk to find our accommodation. From the moment we set eyes on the place we realized we’d finally booked a good one! The Bhu Nga Thani was truly a sight for sore eyes after fiascos at places like the Royal Shithole, the Royal Ripoff, and Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation. We checked in at the counter with a man who introduced himself as Little Max (I suppose he thinks many of us American’s use our rap names when we first meet). We had some purple lemonade (somehow related to a bougainvillea flower) and went up to our room.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around exploring the hotel and its immediate surroundings before going to dinner at a place called Mom’s Kitchen—pretty decent pad Thai and great coconut curry. We met a couple from London who had been traveling for two weeks—they recommended some places for us to go during our travels. After dinner we wandered down a narrow pathway along the water until we passed the accommodation Daniel had stayed at when he was last here seven years ago. Excited to show me where he had spent his formative years, Daniel and I ascended 67 steps and arrived at a hippie bungalow style hotelish place, needless to say, I’m very pleased I wasn’t here seven years ago. Satisfied with his trip down memory lane, we climbed down and walked back to our hotel to go to sleep.

Daniel's trip down memory lane—the place he stayed 7 years ago.
Daniel’s trip down memory lane—the place he stayed 7 years ago.

Monday morning we woke up, ate breakfast and went to the pool. In the afternoon we headed over to Railay East beach to check out Phra Nang Cave aka Princess Cave aka Phallus Shine aka Dick Mecca for Dayz (we may have made that last one up). Legend has it that in the 3rd century BC, a royal barge carrying an Indian princess sank here during a storm. They say the spirit of the princess came to inhabit the cave, grating favors to all who came to pay respect so long as they brought artfully carved wooden phalluses with them. While neither of us brought wooden dick offerings, it was definitely a spectacle worth seeing.

Located at the southern end of Phra Nang beach is a cave known as Phra Nang Cave aka Princess Cave aka Phallus Shine. With beautiful limestone stalactites this cave is better know for its legends and ornate phallus offerings rather than its natural formations. Legend has it that in the 3rd century BC a royal barge carrying an Indian princess sank in a storm here. The spirit of  princess came to inhabit the cave, granting favours to all who came to pay respect so long as they offered beautifully carved wooden dicks.
Located at the southern end of Phra Nang beach is a cave known as Phra Nang Cave aka Princess Cave aka Phallus Shine. With beautiful limestone stalactites this cave is better know for its legends and ornate phallus offerings rather than its natural formations. Legend has it that in the 3rd century BC a royal barge carrying an Indian princess sank in a storm here. The spirit of princess came to inhabit the cave, granting favours to all who came to pay respect so long as they offered beautifully carved wooden dicks.
"Dick Pic"–for "luck and posterity" as they say here in Dicks for Dayz Cave
“Dick Pic”–for “luck and posterity” as they say here in Dicks for Dayz Cave

After checking out the dick shrine, we walked in beautiful white sand down the crescent-shaped beach. We bought lunch from one of the floating boat restaurants to eat on the sand so we could watch the rock climbers scaling the amazing rock formations that surrounded us. After some time on the beach we went back to the hotel pool and hung out until sunset.

East Railay Beach—with a side of tropical pineapple fries. These outfits are what I got us for Valentine's Day.
East Railay Beach—with a side of tropical pineapple fries. These outfits are what I got us for Valentine’s Day.
Floating lunch boats and a french fry.
Floating lunch boat and a french fry.

We watched the sunset from Railay West beach. It was the most spectacular sunsets I’ve seen in a while (and we’ve seen quite a few since we’ve been here). My dad would have gone crazy for it, so in his honor we took a bunch of photos as well as a time-lapse video of the sun slowly sinking down below the horizon line. Then we had dinner on the beach before heading back to the hotel.

"Jumping Jaxy"—from the beaches of Railay where some of the Japanese tourists are starting to catch onto the #JumpingJaxy trend.
“Jumping Jaxy”—from the beaches of Railay where some of the Japanese tourists are starting to catch onto the #JumpingJaxy trend.
Us in our tropical sunset costumes.
Us in our tropical sunset costumes.

Post sunset chills on the beach looking at the beach walk behind us.
Post sunset chills on the beach looking at the beach walk behind us.

Tuesday we went back to East Railay beach to go kayaking. We rented the kayak for two hours for 350 Baht ($10.75), and started to paddle out around the amazing rock formations and underwater caves. It was absolutely spectacular, aside from realizing there were multitentacled box jellyfish directly underneath us (the most dangerous kind) and almost being run over by a long boat speeding through the water until he heard us screaming in panic (he must have missed us by 2 feet). We had a bit of a scare, but it all worked out.

Relaxing on our kayak in the middle of the ocean before a long boat almost ran over us.
Relaxing on our kayak in the middle of the ocean before a long boat almost ran us over.

What do they got? - A lot of sand. We got a hot crustacean band.- Each little clam here, know how to jam here. Under the sea.
What do they got? – A lot of sand. We got a hot crustacean band.- Each little clam here, know how to jam here. Under the sea.

As we walked down a narrow pathway to another side of the island for lunch, we spotted about 11 monkeys hanging out on a fence. It kind of insane how much they look and behave like humans when you watch them for long enough—aside from the picking bugs out of each others fur and eating it aspect. After a while, one idiot man approached them and started to pet the monkey. It went from sweet to ferocious in about 30 seconds, which is when Daniel and I decided to hightail it to lunch.

We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging at the pool, setting up this blog, and prepping for another sunset at Railay West beach. The beach, during the sunset, kind of feels like San Francisco’s Dolores Park in that everyone brings beverages, snacks, blankets/beach matts, music, and entertainment; it’s a magical place to be, and once again, the sunset did not disappoint. Deliriously happy we went for dinner and ran into our friends Juilan and Margarit (from France—who we met on Ko Lanta). They told us they knew we were here because they could see me doing a “Jumping Jaxy” on the beach during the sunset the night before. So funny.

Sunset Selfie Stick Shot.
Sunset Selfie Stick Shot.
Sunset on Railay West beach.
Sunset on Railay West beach.

When we woke up this morning it was HOT outside, so we decided to spend the entire day chilling at the pool. At six we left the hotel to go to Railay West beach to watch the sunset. Then we went for dinner at the Railay Princess hotel—delicious Pad Thai and grilled snapper. Daniel acquired a cat friend who meowed under the table the entire meal until we finally caved and give him some fish. Railay must have previously had some type of good luck associated with cats—before the obsession with wooden dicks—because the place is crawling with them and for some reason none of them have full length tails. Now we’re getting ready to go to bed.

All in all, it was another awesome night in Railay. This place is amazing!

That’s all for meow.

XoxOox (big kiss, little hug, little kiss, big hug, little hug, little kiss)

 

P.S. We both just finished our books and are looking for some fun, light beach reading recommendations. Please provide any suggestions you may have in the comments. The more the better!

Part 4: Ko Lanta

Hey! Hi!

Hope everyone is enjoying their weekend! Here’s more reading material for when you’re bored or in need of something to read.

Friday afternoon we arrived in Ko Lanta. The moment we stepped off the ferry we were swarmed by 40-50 men all hawking their taxi and tuk tuk services. It was completely ridiculous. Eventually we decided to entertain one guy standing next to us rather than on top of us (but I think we really chose him because he was wearing the brightest and most colorful pants). He told us it would cost 400 Baht ($12) to get to our “hotel,” Daniel told him 250 Baht ($7) and he quickly agreed to the price (which makes me think we still overpaid), before trying to work us up to 300 Baht ($9) on the way to the car. Kind of comical actually, as he was trying to raise our ride price while other drivers standing in the “parking lot” were trying to poach us to ride with them (so popular). Tourism is definitely the money maker for this island.

We climbed into his truck bed (2 bench rows facing each other under a little canopy) and then he disappeared back into the massive crowd near the ferry. His wife came and sat guard on the end of the truck. Five minutes later the man returned with two tatted up Finish women (one with a tooth piercing—I’m not making this up, she had a little hole punched out of one of her front tooth with a purple crystal embedded for reasons I’ll never understand). The two women climbed in the truck, the wife came to sit guard and the man disappeared again. Daniel realized we could be waiting until the truck was full and tried to get off to find a tuk tuk that would drive us on our schedule. He was quickly intercepted by the wife on the back of the truck, who all of a sudden turned into a professional goalie because she refused to let Daniel get off. She started calling for her husband who came running over. Daniel told him (in his best Thai accent—which has been totally necessary every time he’s used it) that we didn’t want to wait longer and we could get another ride. The man jumped into the truck and drove us to our hotel. When we got out he and his wife unsuccessfully tried one more time to negotiate for 300 Baht.

We walked into the Pada (Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation) Hotel, which we had booked online the night before, and found two very mangy looking Shih Tzus in dresses lying on the floor. We approached the front counter and were greeted with papaya juice (not that they knew, but they were already off to a bad start cause neither Daniel nor I like papaya). The man behind the counter explained that we had only reserved a place, but still had to pay. We tried to look for another accommodation but he said they would charge us a no-show fee if we left. So we paid too much (by Thai standard) and were shown to a lime green bungalow—not so bad we thought until we walked in (which took a few minutes because “the key has to be almost fully in the door, but not too far in, and pressure has to be slightly applied to the left and then forcefully applied to the right or it don’t work”).

A lovely welcome to the Pada by lively Shih Tzu's in dresses.
A lovely welcome to the Pada by lively Shih Tzu’s in dresses.
Pada (Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation) "Hotel".
Pada (Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation) “Hotel” bungalows.

The room looked fine, but the bed must be a box spring (no mattress) with years of loose change floating around inside of it, covered in a thin sheet the texture of tissue paper. The bathroom is a pink tiled palace with a lovely combination toilet/shower (a concept I wasn’t privy to previously). Charming. Also, I forgot to mention that they require you to rent a beach towel every day. You are not allowed to reuse the one you had from the day before, and if you take your shower towel they will charge you the beach towel fee. We learned that this is the only hotel on our side of the island that requires this.

Combos that don't work—I've heard of shampoo/conditioner but never toilet/shower.
Combos that don’t work—I’ve heard of shampoo/conditioner but never toilet/shower.

We flung our stuff down, changed into bathing suits, went to the shared pool next door and ate lunch. Not a bad way to start the afternoon! The views out over the water are stunning beyond belief. In the distance you can see these amazing islands/rock formations that distinguish this place from anywhere else I’ve ever been.

Beach view from Ko Lanta.
Beach view from Ko Lanta.

After a two and a half hour lunch (only because “service” here downright shouldn’t be called service—the people run away as fast as they can, even when you’re trying to order…?) we walked down on the beach to check it out. Eventually I heard someone screaming my name on one of the wooden massage decks at the top of the beach. I walked closer and realized it was Daniel and Laura (the people we met at the elephant park). They said they were able to spot me on the beach because I was taking a “Jumping Jaxy” photo (silly). Daniel and I walked over to say hi and they convinced us to get massages as well. We got an hour massage for $9 each while watching the sunset directly in front of us through strands of seashell wind chimes. It was in insane!!!

Sally sells sea shells down by the sea shore. Sunset shabbos massages with a view of Ko Lanta.
Sally sells sea shells down by the sea shore. Sunset shabbos massages with a view of Ko Lanta.

We walked back to Pardon A Decrepit Accommodation hotel and were told to climb through the bushes to get to our room, as there was a man standing in a human-sized hole in the middle of the wooden plank pathway. Ok.

For dinner we went back to the hotel next door (Lanta Palace Resort and Beach Club—where we had lunch) because the restaurant puts on a show every Friday night. Since we didn’t book we were looking for a place we could sit and found this awesome French couple—Julian and Margarit—who told us to join them. The show consisted of some dances that involved sarongs, pyramid structure, “poi” aka fire dancing, and Thai boys dressed up as middle eastern men (wearing the Groucho Marx glasses, except that the noses were cherry red) holding their beards and watching women dance and do some type of work—very “interesting”. Random note: Ko Lanta is a Muslim island, which is crazy as we’ve been told that 90% of Thailand is Buddhist. Anyway, Julian and Margarit were awesome. We had a lot of fun with them and closed down the restaurant/bar with them at one AM. When we got back to our grand palace we could hear the man still hammering away at replacing the walk way—a lovely way to fall to sleep. If anyone would like a soundtrack of the soothing sounds of Ko Lanta, please let me know and I’ll try to acquire a CD for you.

Dinner at Lanta Palace Resort and Beach Club Restaurant with our new friends Julian and Margarit!
Dinner at Lanta Palace Resort and Beach Club Restaurant with our new friends Julian and Margarit (oh and the guy who took the picture thought he was being “artsy” with his angular perspective).
Daniel loving life in a hammock at dinner—he's been excited to get to Ko Lanta!
Daniel loving life in a hammock at dinner—he’s been excited to get to Ko Lanta!
Traditional Thai dancing, that involves unwrapping the ladies at the dinner show.
Traditional Thai dancing, that involves unwrapping the ladies at the dinner show.
Poi or fire dancing at the dinner show!
Poi or fire dancing at the dinner show!
That part of the dinner show where Thai boys dressed up as middle eastern men (wearing the Groucho Marx glasses, except that the noses were cherry red) holding their beards and watching women dance and do work—soooo strange.
That part of the dinner show where Thai boys dressed up as middle eastern men (wearing the Groucho Marx glasses, except that the noses were cherry red)—?

Saturday morning we ate breakfast, booked our ferry to Railay and went on a walk down the beach to explore. We found a fantastic spot outside of a bungalow restaurant on the beach and decided the only thing that would make the day even better would be to get rafts for the water. We walked to the nearest shop, picked up rafts, ran into two people from our cooking class in Chiang Mai, ran into a couple from the plane ride to Thailand (Thailand is starting to feel like a small village), and headed back to our spot on the beach. We stayed there the entire day, ordered food (we found some fun misspelled words on the menu) blew up the rafts (which took forever), went in the water, and read. Just before sunset we walked back to the hotel next door to our place and watched the sunset from inside the pool.

Our spot on the beach for the day.
Our spot on the beach for the day.
PLAUN yogurt
PLAUN yogurt
Menu fun in Ko Lanta—PORRIDE with milk.
Menu fun in Ko Lanta—PORRIDE with milk.
Nothing goes better with jelly than PENUTTER.
Nothing goes better with jelly than PENUTTER.
"Floating on rafts in the ocean in Thailand, this is what the Gopro was meant for" —Daniel
“Floating on rafts in the ocean in Thailand, this is what the Gopro was meant for” —Daniel

We met Daniel and Laura for dinner that night at the hotel restaurant next door (yes, we could have ventured elsewhere, but the food/ambiance was good and Daniel Seeff was obsessed with their green curry). Just after we ordered we saw Julian and Margarit and invited them to join us. Coincidently, both Daniel and Julian are doctors, so we heard a few good stories from them. After a delicious meal we called it a night.

IMG_3494
Daniel, Lauren, Laura, Daniel aka Waaaarahhn and Peter at dinner in Ko Lanta.
Dinner with friends on Ko Lanta
Julian, Margarit, Lauren, Daniel, Laura, and Daniel at Lanta Palace Resort and Beach Club Restaurant.

We woke up this morning, ate breakfast, checked out, and went to the beach. Now we are in a truck on the way back to the ferry to go to Railay.

Smooches

Part 3: Pai and Krabi

Happy Happy Love Love!

We’ve slowed down our pace a bit. Nothing to report as wild or crazy as the last two email recaps, but this one is still lengthy. A few of you have mentioned that you enjoy reading this while in the bathroom, so we hope you enjoy. Oh, and speaking of bathrooms, it’s worth mentioning that most public bathrooms here do not have toilet paper—just a hose (not so cute). So now I carry a role wherever we go.

Toilet and a hose. No TP in sight.
Toilet and a hose. No TP in sight.

Driving to Pai from Chiang Mai took 3 hours and required 762 turns up a hillside mountain (no we didn’t count, it’s a wiki fact). Heading advice from every person who’d done the drive, I took Dramamine preventatively—I never got car sick but it made me feel jet lagged all over again. Anywho, the drive was easy and quite scenic. Throughout the majority of the drive we saw over 100 little coffee shops all promoting “the best coffee”.

We made it to Pai around 1:30 PM and checked into Rim Pai Cottage—an accommodation highly recommended by Lonely Plant. The place was very nice, a basic, modern-day hut perched on support beams with a wooden staircase and a bathroom, but nothing to write home about. The shower pressure was non existent…. I’ve met many leaky faucets that have dispersed more water than that shower.

Rim Pai Cottage accommodation in Pai.
Rim Pai Cottage accommodation in Pai.

Ready to eat, we consulted Trip Advisor for a lunch spot. The number one ranked place to eat in Pai is Cafecito, a little Mexican/coffee spot on the sleepy side of Pai—Mexican food in Thailand, who knew? The decor was awesome. We sat down inside and ordered: blackened fish tacos, breakfast burrito, beer, and eventually cold brews.

Cafecito—a small cafe on the sleepy side of Pai. A cozy setting, cold brew coffee, delicious Mexican food, and crooked little window with a cactus .
Cafecito—a small cafe on the sleepy side of Pai. A cozy setting, cold brew coffee, delicious Mexican food, and a crooked little window with a cactus .

We started chatting with the girl at the table next to us, only to learn that she was named Lauren (obviously, cause who isn’t these days) and living on a boat in Marina Del Rey. Coincidently she happened to be college room mates one year with our friend Diane in SF… small world. She also just quit her job and was traveling for 9 months. Daniel helped her plan her trip to South Africa while I took a mini siesta. Eventually we walked back to the hotel and I passed out for 2 hours thanks to Dramamine.

I woke up around six to Daniel making gin and tonics—I mean, I couldn’t ask for a better live-in if I tried. We had a drink, put on warmer clothes (because as we leaned, Pai is not a summer or spring weather town at night/early morning), and headed out to the town. The streets were lined with local venders selling the typical Thai street stuff (elephant pants, flowers carved out of soap, shorts made out of bathing suit material, postcards, notebooks, carved wooden things, colorful pom pom hair ties, flowers, etc) as well as a variety of street food. As far as eating goes, street food is great, but a lot of the time there is nowhere to eat it, so we opted for authentic Thai Italian food at a place called Baan Pizza. The pizza was good but nothing either of us would remember.

After dinner we wandered, following the sound of live music only to realize there was a river between where we were and wherever the music was. We found 3 girls sitting on the balcony (singing poorly at the top of their lungs) among a nearby grouping of huts, and asked them how to get to the music. They told us to join them. On our walk to Circus School (live music) we learned that they were from Holland, traveling for 1.5 months, and had spent the day pushing the scooters they rented across town because their gas meters said they were almost out of gas (later when they arrived at the gas station and opened their tanks they discovered each one was still half full). Oh Thailand tourist traps.

Circus School was basically a small field with huts. We got drinks at one hut and headed over to the music hut to hear a British hippie man play guitar. He sounded like a mixture of Justin Bieber and Dispatch. After a couple of songs we decided to head back for the night and pass out.

We woke up the next morning and went to eat breakfast (many accommodations here give you a voucher for breakfast when you check in)…nothing to report. Then we got in the car to drive out of Pai. About 5 minutes out of the main city there is a strip of amazingly kitchy coffee shops. Of course, we had to stop at 3 of them for some photo opps. The first one was called Coffee in Love, the place had great views and a floral rose wreath shaped like a heart. The second one was called The Container and was colorful, crazy, wonderful, fun overload with swinging egg chairs and technicolored views out onto the mountains. I decided that Barney’s alter ego, who would be called Yenrab, would live here and trip out all day. The third own was called Love Strawberry Pai and was basically a strawberry themed, theme park that served coffee, strawberry fruit shakes, and of course, strawberry themed clothing, hats and bags/pouches. All three places were absolutely historical.

Coffee in Love—many of the coffee shops in and around Pai involve the word LOVE in their name. This rose wreath is as kitchy as could be and I love it so much!
Coffee in Love—many of the coffee shops in and around Pai involve the word LOVE in their name. This rose wreath is as kitchy as could be and I love it so much!
Happy happy joy joy at The Container. A technicolored view of the mountains from hanging egg chairs.
Happy happy joy joy at The Container. A technicolored view of the mountains from hanging egg chairs.
Love Strawberry Pai—the best setting for a photoshoot amid a strawberry themed theme park.
Love Strawberry Pai—the best setting for a photoshoot amid a strawberry themed theme park.

Almost through our 762 turns on the way down, we stopped on the side of the road at a placed called Pankled Coffee for lunch. We got pad Thai and enjoyed the view of the sheep they randomly kept in an enclosure a distance away from the restaurant. After lunch we drove the car back to the airport and sat down at Burger King, the only place with electrical outlets. Daniel edited videos while I took a nap in the booth (so classy).

We took a 2 hour flight on Air Asia from Chiang Mai to Krabi. I know I described Bangkok as organized chaos, but the Krabi airport was just chaos. We had to buy our taxi to our accommodation inside first and then wait on the road for a random woman (who may or may not have actually worked at the airport) to tell us to enter a car based on some system I’m sure she made up in her head. We got in the taxi and drove to our hotel Tairada aka the Royal Ripoff (I don’t only mean it in the sense of the room price, but more so in the sense that every service they help you book is double the normal amount—e.g. a taxi into town, a ferry boat service, etc). The woman at the counter speaks less than three words of English, if that makes any sense, which I’m sure it doesn’t because most things don’t. After some communication difficulties we took an overpriced taxi to the main strip in town. We booked our island ferries for cheaper and met a friendly Malaysian guy named Ean. Ean worked for Air Asia and told us some excellent stories. We invited him to go to the outdoor market with us for dinner. Shortly after sitting down to eat it started to rain, so we got onto another mode of transportation and went back to the Royal Ripoff to go to sleep.

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The Tairada Hotel in Krabi—aka the Royal Ripoff.

We woke up this morning and went downstairs to wait for our ride to the ferry to pick us up at 9:20. After multiple calls back and forth with a woman who continued to tell us our transportation would arrive “anyyyy minute,” we decided at 11:20 to just take a taxi.

We arrived at the port just in the nick of time to catch our ferry to Ko Lanta (an island off of Krabi). We got to the front of the boat thinking we got the best seats in the house, but it turns out we have been on a 2 hour ride in the splash zone. As were starting to dry off I can see a thick layer of dried salt appearing. Super cute.

Dried off a little bit after almost two hours of getting sprayed on the ferry.
Dried off a little bit after almost two hours of getting sprayed on the ferry.

Enough for now. Enjoy the novel.

Xx

Part 2: Chiang Mai

Aloha Aloha!

We hope all of you are doing well! Here is another chapter of our novel to read at your leisure.

Two days ago we went to Baan Chang Elephant Park, a elephant excursion recommended by Lonely Planet. We were picked up at our hotel by a driver and a guide named “Jimmy” or “Crazy Jimmy” as he likes to refer to himself.

According to Jimmy, he is referred to as "Crazy Jimmy" because his wife says he drinks too much.
According to Jimmy, he is referred to as “Crazy Jimmy” because his wife says he drinks too much.

An hour later we arrived at the elephant park with our group of 12 people. We were each given the equivalent of scrubs (but for hippies) because they say the elephants absolutely stink and your clothes will never be the same. So we all changed in to matching blue hippie scrubs and headed over to an open area with about 45 elephants all chained down by one leg (something we felt a bit uncomfortable with). Each elephant was accompanied by their “person or trainer” known as a mahoot. Jimmy told us about where the elephants were rescued from and the mission of Baan Chang. Then we were taught how to feed the elephants bananas and sugar cane.  At one point Jimmy called Daniel and I to come up and try something, and another couple approached him at the same time. Confused, all four of us shortly learned that we had almost the same names: we were Daniel and Lauren from America and they were Daniel and Laura from Germany (and with a Thai accent Lauren and Laura sound like “waurahn” anyway). Very funny.

Elephant “hippie scrubs”
Our group at Baan Chang—Daniel and Laura are standing next to Daniel (on the left)
Our group at Baan Chang—Daniel and Laura are directly next to Daniel (on the left—Daniel’s right).
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Fuzzy and freckled, elephants are contagious. They call her Mary Poppins for her pie crust promises.

We met one elephant who had previously been trained to give kisses, which entailed wrapping its trunk around you and vacuum sucking your check. One of the weirdest feelings I’ve ever encountered because it with both ticklish and terrifying in that I thought it might suck my flesh off. Then we all leaned some basic elephant commands (which for all intensive purposes could have been complete bullshit and just fun for Jimmy and the mahoots to hear us shout) and were taught how to get on/off an elephant—it made boarding and riding a camel feel like second nature (something I never thought I’d say in my life). We rode the elephants bareback, on their necks, because they say that the wooden chair platforms aren’t good.

Elephant Smooches—Thong Comp leaves one ginormous hickie
Elephant Smooches—Thong Comp leaves one ginormous hickie
Daniel riding his elephant off into the distance.
Daniel riding his elephant off into the distance.

Around 12 we all had lunch together inside. Vegetarian pad Thai and pineapple. Pretty decent.  When we were finished we went back out to the open area and were assigned an elephant (one per couple). Ours was named MeeNaa and was rescued from logging work in northern Thailand. At the beginning I rode on her neck and Daniel on her back, half way through we switched.   Aside from having a sore butt within 10 minutes of riding, the exposed parts of my calfs were chafing due to MeeNaa’s wiry black hairs—lets just say a mud bath wasn’t sufficient, she could have used a deep conditioning.

Mee Nah was rescued from logging work in the north of Thailand.
Mee Nah was rescued from logging work in northern Thailand.

At the end of the ride the elephants all went into a deep pool of “water” to bathe and almost everyone got in along with them to scrub them. Almost everyone excluded our new friend Laura and I, as we were informed that the elephants are happiest in the water and when they’re happy they poop—a lot. So basically everyone in the water was standing waist deep in elephant poop soup. Since elephant bathing time is considered bonding time, Daniel and MeeNaa will remain much closer than she and I, but I’m ok with that.

Daniel standing waist deep in elephant poop soup giving Mee Nah a nice scrub down.
Daniel standing waist deep in elephant poop soup giving Mee Nah a nice scrub down.
Daniel getting a shower from Mee Nah in return for her bath.
Daniel getting a shower from Mee Nah in return for her bath.

Smelly and sore, we showered and changed back into our clothes and got back in the car to go the hotel. After second showers at the hotel we met up with Laura and Daniel for dinner at a restaurant called Cooking Love (also recommended by Rakow). The food was ridiculously good as was the company. After dinner we walked around the old town of Chiang Mai, went to the night bazaar (same stuff everywhere), and went back to go to sleep.

Yesterday we went to Thai Farm Cooking School in Chiang Mai. We got picked up from our hotel by a cute little woman named Benny. Benny put us in the back of an open truck with 8 other people (two bench seats facing each other) and we headed to a local Thai indoor/outdoor market. On the way to the market we filled out a form of what we wanted to make from a menu of 4 dishes and a dessert. At the market Benny brought us around to show us different Thai herbs, spices, meats, and produce. She showed us 3 different types of chili—one which she took the liberty of calling “mouse poop chili” due to its size—and then quizzed us on which one was the spiciest. After the group being told “you fail!” after guessing each size, she screamed out, “I’m the hottest! So sexy” and proceeded to swirl her body. Needless to say, this woman was on her game the whole day and she totally made the cooking class 10x better than it already would have been.

At the cooking school our group of 10 had our own outdoor eating patio and indoor cooking hut. Benny took us around the outdoor vegetable garden where we tasted and picked different herbs and produce to cook with, while dressed in traditional Thai cooking attire; red aprons and sombreros. For whatever reason Benny couldn’t remember Daniels name so she just decided to call him Peter the whole day. I think that by the end he actually responded to it.

Thai cooking attire; red aprons and sombreros.
Thai cooking attire; red aprons and sombreros.
Team Benny eating our food outside.
Team Benny eating our food outside.

The facility was awesome and Benny was an excellent instructor. For our first dish we made soup. I made Tom Yum (vegetarian) soup and Daniel made Tom Kaa (coconut milk) soup. For the second and third dishes I made yellow curry and tofu with cashews and Daniel made red curry and tofu with basil (Benny made rice for everyone). Before we sat down to eat our group asked our driver to pick up beer for us. Lunch was delicious! For our fourth dish (which we took home for dinner because we were all too full to eat) I made pad Thai (using Benny’s special sauce recipe) and Daniel made vegetarian spring rolls.

What
Tom Yum soup, Tom Kaa soup, red curry, yellow curry, tofu with cashews, tofu with basil, and rice.

Throughout the day, as we were cooking, Benny went around the room taking selfies of herself on our cameras (with us in the background). For dessert we made mango sticky rice (coconut milk with palm sugar and salt). Before we left Benny added us on Facebook and then the car took us back to the hotel around 4. Thai Farm Cooking School was definitely a trip highlight!

Benny taking a selfie. Oh yeah, we're in the background.
Benny taking a selfie. Oh yeah, we’re in the background.
Homemade mango sticky rice.
Homemade mango sticky rice.

For the rest of the night we planned out our island travels, ate our pad Thai and spring rolls and passed out early because today we drive to Pai. Pai is a small hippie town filled with Israelis and chillers. The drive takes about three hours because the roads are ridiculously windy.

Lastly, and most importantly, Daniel has expanded the Scott Jacks School of International Language* to Asia. All syntax and pronunciation looks and sounds like ESL (English second language) Asians—replacing “L” sounds with “R” and “W” sounds, completely eliminating the use of the plural, and repeating the same word for emphasis (e.g. “I want nice nice car, not bad bad.) So happy to report the *SJSIL is alive and thriving.

From the Asian branch teachings of SJSIL “Hope you enjoy. Keep you post!”

Xx
Waaaarahhn and Peter

Part 1: Bangkok and Chiang Mai

Aloha (as they say in Thailand)!

***Disclaimer: this is a short novel That we’ll be parceling out over several long posts Read when you’re bored.

Missing all of you and thought we’d give you all a little update since we’re not able to chat with all of you yet on What’s App.

We’re having an awesome trip. Spent 3 days in Bangkok (the city is basically organized chaos to sum it up). The first day we went on a river boat, did 2 out of the 3 major temples—Wat Phra Kaew (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and Wat Pho (the birthplace of the Thai massage and the home of Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha)—and went to a vegetarian Thai restaurant (Arawy Vegetarian Restaurant) where they spoke no English. We asked what everything was and they thought we ordered everything, so we ended up with a random smorgasbord of vegetarian food.

Chao Phraya River in Bangkok
River boat down Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

 

Owner: "What you want?" // Us: "What is everything?" // Owner: "Everythinnnggg" // ... and that's how we ended up with a smorgasbord of spicy non-distinct vegetarian Thai food // welcome to Thailand — thanks for the recommendation @lonelyplanet
Owner: “What you want?” // Us: “What is everything?” // Owner: “Everythinnnggg” // … and that’s how we ended up with a smorgasbord of spicy non-distinct vegetarian Thai food // welcome to Thailand — thanks for the recommendation @lonelyplanet

 

Wat Phra Kaew
Monkey see, monkey do. Use at Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
Wat Pho // the birthplace of the traditional Thai massage and Thailand's largest Reclining Buddha covered in gold paint // mother-of-pearl toe inlays
Wat Pho // the birthplace of the traditional Thai massage and Thailand’s largest Reclining Buddha covered in gold paint // mother-of-pearl toe inlays

The second day we went to the Jim Thompson House (an ex-pat American who moved to Thailand and made crazy things happen in the silk industry)—a really cool experience. Then we walked the streets. Went to a local market and then to one of the massive shopping centers for a food court lunch. We went to a sushi restaurant for dinner and then to Khoasan Road (the most touristy, dregs-of-the-world/middle earth type of place) to see what we were missing out on—absolutely nothing was the answer.

Jumping Jaxy emoji // at "The Legendary American of Thailand"—Jim Thompson's house
Jumping Jaxy emoji // at “The Legendary American of Thailand”—Jim Thompson’s house

The third day we woke up early and went to Chatuchuk Market—one of the largest weekend markets in the world, known for everything from amazing vintage wear, exotic animals, plastic fruits and foods (yes there is a whole section for this), food and much much more (27 full sections). I loved it! Then we went to another massive shopping mall for a food court lunch and air conditioning. We chilled at our hotel pool until we had to go to the airport that night. Daniel bought me a $1 fried rice at the airport for Valentines Day dinner (so romantic).

"Assuming the Identity"—I got bored waiting for Daniel to find something so I decided to try on all my vintage wears from Chatuchak Market at once. Oh and Daniel got me a selfie stick for V-Day . Happy ValentinesDay to you and yours
“Assuming the Identity”—I got bored waiting for Daniel to find something so I decided to try on all my vintage wears from Chatuchak Market at once. Oh and Daniel got me a selfie stick for V-Day . Happy ValentinesDay to you and yours

We got to Chiang Mai (up north) Wednesday night. This city is awesome.  We hired a driver named Mr M, who Rakow recommended to us when she was here.

Yesterday we met Mr M at our hotel The Royal Lanna (which Daniel as been calling the Royal Shithole) and went to The Tiger Kingdom —where we got to choose to go in the enclosure with “big, medium, small, or smallest” size tigers. Daniel and I went with the big ones and it was terrifying. It made the cheetah park in South Africa (where you either look at animals in a large enclosure or sit in a safari truck with a guide with a gun)!look perfectly safe. At this park it was us in a cage with 4 tigers, 4 boys with sticks and a few other idiots like us. It made for some awesome photos, though can’t say we would do it again. Best part is the animals were named Michael, Frankie, Nancy, and San Diego.

Daniel and lauren with a tiger
I imagine that if either one of us were on tinder, this would be the money shot // I’d call a tiger Shere Kahn but they went with Frankie (not pictured Nancy, Michael, and San Diego) // very safe

After the tiger park we went to Baan Tong Luang Village where 5 tribes live—most notably the Padong/Karen Long Neck tribe. All the tribes live in huts separated across the hillside and sell random goods according to their tribe’s style. We went straight to the Long Neck tribes and I feel very good saying that I supported all of them enough to send a child to school for a year. Just kidding, not that insane—but I played a very good tourist in true Jacks form.

Padong (Long Neck) Tribe
Malay is a Burmese refuge and member of the Padong (Long Neck) Tribe // she weaves beautiful scarfs, table cloths, & bags and her husband carves wood dolls, instruments, & penis shaped whistle—bottle openers // Malay said I’d look nicer with rings on my neck, a bag under my arm, and a penis shaped bottle opener // I followed 2 out of 3

Once we left the hillside we went to a traditional Thai restaurant and then to a small town’s local wat (Wat Pa Dara Phirom). It’s insane how much detail they put into these places, especially when there are so many of them around the city. After the local wat we went to northern Thailand’s most sacred temple at the top of a mountain Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.  You have to climb 306 steps (not terrible, but we got our shvitz on) to get up there. Same thing there- lots of ornate paintings and enough Buddha statutes to populate a continent. We also found that lots of couples and families like to match identically (which I went insane about and chased them until I got them to let me take photos of them so Daniel could slyly get some good photos).

Two families dressed the same, priceless picture by Daniel
Two seperate families dressed alike, completely unrelated, coming together into one frame to create the perfect “Same Same, but Different” moment.

Around 5:00 pm Mr M dropped us off at the Sunday Walking Market—a massive street market that never ends (seriously we never found an end cause it just zigs and zags down each street).  We found an Italian restaurant (Girasole) outdoors that faced onto the market. Got a Thai pizza and wine and then went back to the Royal Shithole and went to bed.

Us with our driver Mr. M
Us with our driver Mr. M

This morning we checked out and found another cheap hotel (which Daniel thinks is better than the previous one —I can’t tell the difference) and just got picked up to go to the elephant sanctuary where you ride bareback. We’ll report more later!

Xoxo

LJ and Danny Boy

#DanSchlepsJax on Instagram